(DESVÆRRE KUN PÅ ENGELSK)

Kilde: http://www.swatskates.com

BEARING MAINTENANCE


* Remove the bearings from the wheels. 

* To clean them thoroughly, they need to be open faced on at least one side. Some bearings have one side open already, others do not. If both sides are sealed, you may remove the shield from one side. Inspect both sides, if one side is dented or otherwise damaged, remove it. If neither side is damaged, it makes no difference which side is removed. Some bearings have 'removable shields', others do not. If the shields are 'removable', they will either have a 'C' style clip ring holding a metal shield in place, or a shield made from a flexible material. To remove the shields, follow the instructions below: 

o 'Non-removable' style - These are the most difficult shields to remove, and once removed, the shields will be damaged, and MAY NOT be replaced. Carefully insert the point of an ice pick, or small knife blade in the space between the shield and the INNER race (the inner race is the smaller diameter one which the axle goes through). Insert the blade only deep enough to barely get under the shield. If you insert it too deep, you may damage the retainer ring on the inside. Carefully pry upward to remove the shield. You may have to work the blade around the bearing & pry up in several different spots for it to come off. 

o 'C' ring style - These shields may be removed and replaced as many times and as often as desired. Locate the beginning and ending points of the 'C' ring, hook the end of the 'C' ring with a small knife blade or other similar sharp object (both ends of the ring will be cut at an angle, with one side being easier than the other to perform this operation). While applying slight inward pressure with the blade, pull the 'C' ring towards the center of the bearing. The 'C' ring will flex, and may be removed from the bearing (the 'C' ring is seated in a groove which is cut in the outer bearing race). Be careful when doing this, as the 'C' ring sometimes springs out, and can be easily lost. After the 'C' ring is removed, the shield should fall off when the bearing is turned upside down. 

o 'Flexible shield' style - These are the easiest to service, and like the 'C' ring style, the shields may be removed and replaced as many times and as often as desired. Carefully insert a small knife blade (or other similar object) in the space between the shield and the INNER race (the inner race is the smaller diameter one which the axle goes through). Insert the blade only deep enough to barely get under the shield. If you insert it too deep, you may damage the retainer ring on the inside. Carefully pry upward to remove the shield. You may have to work the blade around the bearing & pry up in several different spots for it to come off. Be careful while prying upward so as to not bend or otherwise damage the shield. 

After you have one side open on all bearings, you are ready to begin cleaning them.
There are numerous bearing 'cleaning kits' available which include safe solvents and cleaning containers. These are effective, safe and easy, and we highly recommend them. if you have any questions on these products, call us at 1.800.487.7928.
Otherwise, the procedure described below may be used. 

YOU NEED:

 A small bowl or glass jar (be careful using plastic, some plastics will disintegrate when using solvents in them). 
An old toothbrush 
Some type of solvent that will break up grease and will not cause rust - many skaters use mineral spirits and lighter fluid, however, citrus cleaners (without water content), and other bio-degradable solvents are recommended. They are very effective, while also being safe to use. 

* Place the bearings in the bowl & fill with enough solvent to cover the bearings completely. 

* Lightly spin the bearings in the solvent to work the solvent throughout the entire bearing. Scrub with an old toothbrush. After cleaning thoroughly, place the bearings out to dry. To speed up the process, and to ensure removal of all debris, you may blow the bearings dry with compressed air. Use caution with this step. Avoid spinning the bearings at high speeds. Remember, at this point in the process, your bearings have no lubrication. Excessive high speed operation without proper lubrication will damage your bearings. 

* Some citrus solvents leave an oily residue on the bearings. If you are using a solvent which leaves this residue, it needs to be removed before proceeding. To remove this residue, rinse with alcohol. Alcohol will remove the residue and evaporate quickly. We prefer denatured wood alcohol, but rubbing alcohol will work fine. Spin the bearings to ensure the entire bearing is dry. 

* After bearings are COMPLETELY DRY, lubricate with 2 - 3 drops oil per bearing. 
* Install the shields back onto the bearings.
Install bearings in wheels with the shield side out (to protect the bearing from dirt, water, etc.)

* When performed regularly, the above procedure will keep your bearings performing at their best. You may substitute lithium or grease for the oil. Oil will allow your bearings to spin faster but requires more maintenance. Grease will offer the most protection and require the least maintenance. Lithium is a good alternative for a happy medium between top performance & low maintenance.

ET GODT RÅD PÅ DANSK OM TYND SMØRRING

I har vel alle 'fjumret' lidt med forskellige speed olier og rensnings former. Vel en af de mest simpel former for rensning er at bruge en beholder med alm. lampeolie eller tændvæske. Efter rensning har de fleste vel så brugt deres speed olie, teflon stads eller lign. 

Problemet er bare tit at man 'drukner' lejerne lidt. Det er ok mht. langvarig smørring men det give friktion at kugler skal fortrænge oliesjappet inde i lejet hele tiden 
I stedet slå to fluer med smæk. kom noget alm. cykel olie speed olie, symaskineolie eller lignende i lampe olie i forholdet 1:50 eller 2:50. Dvs. når lejerne skal renses bliver de bare smidt i blandingen og rystet godt igennem, der efter taget op og spundet fri for det meste lampe olie. Læg lejet på noget køkkenrulle eller lignende og lad lampeolien fordampe så meget som muligt. Derved bliver der nu en meget tynd olie film tilbage, der giver et virkeligt hurtigt rul, men larmer også mere. 

Eneste ulempe er at det holder ikke så lang tid i km eller i vådt vejr som den gammeldags plasken til med olie. Men nu er det jo kun en proces 
med rensning smørring så det går meget let. Man kan vælge kun at gøre dette med sine løbslejer (og de kan godt holde til løb på op til 42 km, har prøvet).